KAPARKAN FALLS: DIY Trekking/Hiking Guide, Budget + Itinerary & Everything Else You Need To Know

Kaparkan Falls was once a hidden jewel in the landlocked province of Abra until it blew the internet up a few years back when pictures of a gorgeous waterfall with several tiers forming perfect terraces of curtain-like cascades surfaced. Within seconds, it got the whole online community into a seemingly untamable frenzy. It didn’t take long for people to learn its whereabouts and started planning a trip. But as charming and breathtaking as it may be, a visit to this waterfall comes with a hefty price. Others were okay with it but there are some who prefer not to spend so much and try the more conventional way of having an adventure and that is going on a hike which is exactly what I will be sharing with you on this article.

OUR ROLLER COASTER-LIKE STORY

We were a group of 14 people when we visited Kaparkan Falls for the first time. We didn’t intend to go on hiking since most of us were non-hikers. I, being in-charge of planning in the group, initially communicated with Abra’s Tourism Office to secure us slots. It was only the first week of June but to my dismay, all slots for a Saturday visit were already taken. Turns out tour organizers and agencies have hoarded them months ahead. Had I known I can already reserve slots by April and May, we would never have been on that sticky situation. If there is one thing I hate about traveling, it’s not knowing every single detail of the trip and that is exactly what would happen if we get an organized tour. And honestly, I hate getting tours from these organizers since most of them are rip offs and their services are often below standards but I didn’t have a choice.

I prefer to travel DIY but since we had a strict schedule and we all could only agree on August 11, 2018 to visit Kaparkan Falls, I finally took to a Facebook travel group my dire need for 14 slots. Since most of the slots were hoarded by tour organizers, my thinking was that somehow, someone out there still had slots left for us. Few seconds after I posted, my inbox was bombarded with tons of offers but not one of them had anything available for our preferred date. If there were, they may be too expensive or quite unsatisfactory for the given price tag. Like who would wanna pay for a P3500/person tour that doesn’t include food yet when you knew exactly the tour could pretty much cost P2500/person more or less for everything. My head was spinning, trying to sort each message and making sure I didn’t skip a single one until a message from this so-called Ken popped up promising exactly what I was looking for. The date. The slots needed. The right price.

Ken’s offer was everything I needed but it was too good to be true so I did me some research about him. He gave me a link to his Facebook page and profile. I read several positive feedback and not a single negative statement. I was still skeptical so I revert to him with hesitation but he reassured me that he got 14 slots already reserved with the Tourism Office and that everything was going to run smoothly. Afraid I might miss his offer, I finally agreed. Fast forward August 11 and the gang was faced with a problem that will only get worse as we went along.

10PM of August 10, we met with our tour organizer at an open parking area in BGC, Taguig but instead of Ken, I met with Dexter. Ken had an important family affair that he sent Dexter to take care of us. It was all okay until the following morning when it was already 6AM and we were nowhere near the Tourism Office where we’re supposed to get into our 4×4 monster truck ride. I started getting confused. I knew it was raining so hard and the weather that day didn’t seem to be ideal for chasing waterfalls but a little setting of expectations would have been enough. I just settled on the thought that there maybe a change in our itinerary until Dexter said we won’t make it to Kaparkan Falls and that it would only be possible the following day. Everyone agreed it was okay since the rain was getting really bad by the minute. We agreed to just roam some other parts of Abra to kill time.

We drove for over an hour seemingly without direction. I kept my silence and merely observed. We then drove to a road away from the highway. Dexter started asking the locals we passed by along the way for directions. He was speaking in the local’s tongue but as someone who somehow understands Ilocano, I figured we were getting lost. Worse, the locals didn’t seem to have an idea of the place we seek. We drove some more. Covered several unfamiliar turns, curves and slopes. Stopped a few times to ask but not a single one able to clearly point our supposed destination until this one elderly guy pointed us into the right direction. Few minutes more and we arrived at a mightily gushing waterfall.

The waterfall was just along the highway which reminded me so much of my favorite playground as a child, the Aliwagwag Falls. It has several tiers of gushing water that is somehow similar to Kaparkan Falls. It’s main attraction is a 20-feet cascade falling on a small basin surrounded by huge rocks. That waterfall would have been a masterpiece in itself had the weather been better but it looked more of a flash flood than a waterfall with its water resembling that of a creamed coffee. We still enjoyed a cold dip under the rain. And the good thing was we were sharing that moment with a few locals who have gone for a dip as well.

As the rain was getting worse, we headed back to Bangued. Freezing on our wet clothes, we decided to sample Pancit Loglog for lunch and we enjoyed it. I personally loved it. I think it just became one of the few times I actually loved a local noodle dish. The other times were during our after school Batchoy sesh in college. I had tried several Lomi Batangas but it just won’t appeal to my liking but Pancit Loglog I must say, can pretty much hold its own against Ramen and Pho. I’m a big noodle fan and I know a good bowl of noodle whenever I see one.

After lunch, we headed to our accommodation and killed time sleeping, surfing the net and playing some music. At 5PM, some of us went to quickly grab a meal then back to the hostel for more hours doing nothing. At 9PM, dinner was served. We heartily feasted over steamed rice and sinigang. When dinner was over came a not so wonderful news. Dexter failed to get us enough slots that some of us will need to trek in order to see Kaparkan Falls. He said the Tourism Office only granted him 2 slots so the other 12 will need to brave a 4-hour hike come the following morning.

I was all ready to become so angry and negative but with Dexter being so nice, it was hard. Besides, it wasn’t his fault. Turns out we didn’t really have a single slot booked to begin with. Ken screwed us and bailed on us the last minute. We decided to give the slots to the two who were least likely to survive the hike and went to bed. Surprisingly, everyone shared my sentiments and decided to let everything slide. After all, we pretty much had no other choice. We didn’t like how our most anticipated adventure had turned out, yet we didn’t want it to completely go to waste. So off we went to doze off the night to prep up for what awaits us in the morning.

5AM, we headed out to Ba-i, a small village in Lagayan Abra where we were to get a guide for the trek. We arrived there at 7AM and an hour later started the hike. The rain was still all over the place but we didn’t mind it. We continued the long hike despite the cold and the mud stricken trail, taking breathers every now and then. At 10AM, we finally reached Kaparkan Falls. We wasted no time and went to explore. The sight of it was nowhere near those we see in the photos. The gushing water was so strong that it could easily wash us off. The scene was similar to the waterfall we visited from the day before with the falls looking more like a flash flood, murky and filled with debris. We were still able to appreciate its beauty though. Thought we had gone through so much. Might as well make the most out of it.

At 2PM, our two other companions, Dean and Sushie finally arrived with the final batch of visitors ridden on the 4×4 monster truck. They came with the news that the 4×4 truck was half full and could carry 12 more people with ease according to its driver. We were relieved but felt bad about the fact that we were denied slots when there were plenty still available. At 3PM, we headed out. While at the waiting area, we spoke to a certain John, a coordinator from the Tourism Office about our intention of riding the 4×4 truck and that we will be happy to pay. We were caught off guard when he blatantly refused to give us a ride. I tried hard to understand his reasons but I couldn’t. How can someone be so heartless to refuse people a ride and leave them in the cold when there were plenty of space yet to be filled in that 4×4 truck? Besides, we didn’t intend to ride all the way back to Bangued. We only need the ride until the junction leading back to Ba-i Village.

Out of sheer frustration, I urged my peers to drop it and start the hike back. I found it pointless to be arguing with that John. Our time was precious and we might as well use it to cover some distance back to the jump off. It wasn’t like we were too exhausted to hike 2-3 more hours. In fact everyone of us was far from tired. We just thought riding the 4×4 truck would save us the hassle and enable us to travel home earlier since there was still work waiting for us the following morning. More so, we didn’t have flashlights or headlamps so should the trek take us until dark, we would be on a great disadvantage. While on our way back, we saw the 4×4 truck. The driver stopped and took his time to speak to us. Without second thoughts, he agreed to take us in. He was even upset about the fact that John refused us a ride saying he’s the only person who can decide whether or not to take passengers. Besides, we were willing to pay and in this case, the driver was happy to take P100 from each of us.

We finally got home safe and sound and put whatever happened in our Kaparkan Falls epic-adventure-turned-bad behind us. But to our dismay, the drama didn’t end there. When Dexter took to Facebook his sentiments of supporting the locals more by patronizing trekking to Kaparkan Falls instead of the 4×4 truck, some people from Abra’s Tourism Office retaliated and painted everything with even more hate saying things like “how we went against the policy but couldn’t stand firm against the consequences.” How we were rude and picking fights with other passengers which isn’t true at all. And how the paying passengers’ comfort were compromised by giving us their seats because we all looked awfully tired. Like WTF! I could just sigh in disappointment. I wanted to retaliate and set the record straight for everyone to know but thought it was too petty and I got other more meaningful things to do. On top of that, we know our truth and that’s all that matters.

GOOD TO KNOW

• I don’t know how long it dates back but turns out trekking was the more traditional way in visiting Kaparkan Falls. There were people who did it way before the falls went internet-famous and is still being practiced till today.
• During our visit, we got to speak with a few locals and was told that the rise of Kaparkan Falls to fame robbed the native people of Ba-i its rights and livelihood. While trekking was the way to go before and travelers communicate directly with the council of Ba-i, it’s not the same thing now as the 4×4 truck is the way being promoted which the natives have absolutely zero control.
• There’s also conflict as to which town owns jurisdiction of Kaparkan Falls. Commonly, people know it’s located in Tineg which the people of Ba-i, Lagayan Abra is strongly against saying the natives even have title of ownership with them but is being dishonored due to the money involved. Whatever the truth is, I hope they resolve the issue without the natives exploited and are treated fairly.

THE TRAIL

• From the registration point in Ba-i, the trail is a walk on a flat surface that stretched to about or over a kilometer. Come the end of the first stretch is a forest with a gradually ascending trail.
• Inside the forest are moderate slopes with flats in between. The trail is a combination of rocks and soft earth which is easy to walk on. On fast paced, it should take less than 15 minutes to finish.
• Emerging out of the forest was a vast grassland with a Batanes like view of the hills from afar. The trail from here is without shade and consists of alternating long ascents and descents with long flats in between. No too steep trail to cover. It should take 15-20 minutes at most to finish this part on a fairly moderate pace.
• The trail would then enter another forest with similar trail as before, alternating up and down hills with flats in between but shorter along rocks and soft earth. This part should take another 15 minutes before emerging into the main road.
• The main road is a combination of long up and down hills with some flats. It’s the same road the 4×4 truck uses to get to the falls. The road is rugged but some have gapes caused by constant use of the 4×4 truck. Covering this part until the drop off area should take 45 minutes to an hour on a moderate pace with ample rests in between.
• From the drop off area follows the final stretch to the falls. It’s a gradual descent with some flats all the way to Kaparkan Falls. The trail is of rocks and soft earth and some puddles. This should take 10-15 minutes to finish.
• The trek overall should be easy for experienced hikers. First timers should have little difficulty depending on their physical fitness. On sunny days, the trek for the most part is an absolute nightmare under the scorching heat of the sun. Expect some parts of the trail to be extremely muddy (like plenty of puddles that could go waist deep) during days with frequent downpour. The sidewalk should be your savior but should the road be too impossible to pass through, don’t fret, local guides always have an alternative route. On a moderate pace and with enough breathers in the midst, the trek to the falls should take 4 hours the most with every obstacle being considered.

USEFUL TIPS

• If you are adventurous and would like to go on roads less taken, trekking to Kaparkan Falls is highly recommended. Not only will it lessen the gradual deterioration of the mountain due to the impact brought about by the 4×4 truck, it also is economical.
• Should you have no hiking experience, I suggest that you first assess yourself physically before choosing to hike to Kaparkan Falls. Doing some exercise a week or two prior to your hike would also help in preparing you for the challenge.
• Hydrate a week before the trek. Drink plenty of water. It would help prep your body endure the heat come trek time and would lessen chances of dehydration.
• Bring at least 2L of drinking water to replenish your body fluids while you hike especially on days when the sun is unforgiving.
• Wear appropriate footwear. The trail is rugged and could get too slippery at times so to prevent slips and too much impact against your feet and legs, wear a good pair of trekking shoes.
• Cover up. Wear sunscreen. Bring an umbrella or wear a cap. The sun could get pretty nasty up there.
• Make sure to waterproof your belongings and bring poncho/raincoat. Rains are likely to pour down at anytime.
• Bring trail snacks and packed lunch. There are no food and water sources along the trail. There’s a mini store when you reach Kaparkan Falls but should you prefer to eat decent food instead of cup noodles, then better bring your lunch.
• There is no electricity in the vicinity nor mobile network coverage so make sure to charge your gadgets, bring extra power and inform significant people in your lives of where you are going.
• Kaparkan Falls is best visited in June and September since the rain is not too frequent giving you the chance to fully enjoy it in its full glory.
• Trekking can be done on a day trip or overnight. (Update: They no longer allow overnight). Should you wish to just do a daytrip, better start the hike early. Should you prefer overnight, make sure to bring your tent and gears.
• Kaparkan Falls is devoid of any comfort. No proper toilet and shower so learn to adjust.
• After Kaparkan Falls, make more wonderful memories and drop by another exquisite waterfall in Santa Maria, Pinsal Falls
• Most importantly, LEAVE NO TRACE. Kaparkan Falls and other wonders of nature are just too precious to ruin and bastardize. Let’s all be stewards instead to preserve it for future generations to see.

HOW TO GO THERE

In Cubao, ride a Partas or Dominion Bus going to Bangued Abra (8Hrs ; P730). Ride a jeep to Ba-i (1Hr ; P100).

Note:

• Fare would vary and would depend on the type of bus you get to ride on.
• Please make sure to coordinate with Ms. Chieko Buenafe 09953446934 ; 09068366056 to be guided accordingly for passenger jeep schedule.
• If you are in a group if 10-12 then better for you to charter a van.

WHERE TO STAY

There are several affordable inns and lodges in Bangued that you can stay at but should you decide to explore the nearby city of Vigan, here are the most recommended accommodations as curated by Agoda.

BUDGET, ITINERARY & OTHER ESSENTIALS

There you have it lovelies. I hope our adventure inspires you to try a different approach in visiting Kaparkan Falls. Our story is just the perfect example of living the moment. Things could have made a turn for the worse but we will always see the brighter side of things and keep finding our happiness. Until next time! Ciao.